3DBenchy's bow prints out of alignment
$begingroup$
I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy print:
Any suggestions are appreciated.
- Printer (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700 mm)
- Bed Temp: 65 °C
- Extruder Temp: 210 °C
- Filament: PLA (1.75 mm) right out of the package (came with printer from
Formbot) - 200 degrees extruder; 60-degree hotbed - print success, bow issue
persists. speed: 100 - fade height: 0
- nozzle: 200
- bed: 60
- fan speed: 255
- flow: 100 probe offset: -1.4
print-quality troubleshooting
$endgroup$
|
show 1 more comment
$begingroup$
I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy print:
Any suggestions are appreciated.
- Printer (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700 mm)
- Bed Temp: 65 °C
- Extruder Temp: 210 °C
- Filament: PLA (1.75 mm) right out of the package (came with printer from
Formbot) - 200 degrees extruder; 60-degree hotbed - print success, bow issue
persists. speed: 100 - fade height: 0
- nozzle: 200
- bed: 60
- fan speed: 255
- flow: 100 probe offset: -1.4
print-quality troubleshooting
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
Hi Harrison, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 19 at 16:01
3
$begingroup$
Possible duplicate of Calibration improvement of the prusa I3
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 19 at 16:11
$begingroup$
You should also specify print speed (see my answer) and layer height.
$endgroup$
– AndreKR
Jan 19 at 18:36
1
$begingroup$
Too much temperature, try at 195 °C.
$endgroup$
– Fernando Baltazar
Jan 19 at 18:51
$begingroup$
Best results so far: 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked. Not sure where to go?
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:29
|
show 1 more comment
$begingroup$
I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy print:
Any suggestions are appreciated.
- Printer (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700 mm)
- Bed Temp: 65 °C
- Extruder Temp: 210 °C
- Filament: PLA (1.75 mm) right out of the package (came with printer from
Formbot) - 200 degrees extruder; 60-degree hotbed - print success, bow issue
persists. speed: 100 - fade height: 0
- nozzle: 200
- bed: 60
- fan speed: 255
- flow: 100 probe offset: -1.4
print-quality troubleshooting
$endgroup$
I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy print:
Any suggestions are appreciated.
- Printer (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700 mm)
- Bed Temp: 65 °C
- Extruder Temp: 210 °C
- Filament: PLA (1.75 mm) right out of the package (came with printer from
Formbot) - 200 degrees extruder; 60-degree hotbed - print success, bow issue
persists. speed: 100 - fade height: 0
- nozzle: 200
- bed: 60
- fan speed: 255
- flow: 100 probe offset: -1.4
print-quality troubleshooting
print-quality troubleshooting
edited Jan 24 at 9:25
Harrison
asked Jan 19 at 14:40
HarrisonHarrison
62
62
1
$begingroup$
Hi Harrison, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 19 at 16:01
3
$begingroup$
Possible duplicate of Calibration improvement of the prusa I3
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 19 at 16:11
$begingroup$
You should also specify print speed (see my answer) and layer height.
$endgroup$
– AndreKR
Jan 19 at 18:36
1
$begingroup$
Too much temperature, try at 195 °C.
$endgroup$
– Fernando Baltazar
Jan 19 at 18:51
$begingroup$
Best results so far: 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked. Not sure where to go?
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:29
|
show 1 more comment
1
$begingroup$
Hi Harrison, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 19 at 16:01
3
$begingroup$
Possible duplicate of Calibration improvement of the prusa I3
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 19 at 16:11
$begingroup$
You should also specify print speed (see my answer) and layer height.
$endgroup$
– AndreKR
Jan 19 at 18:36
1
$begingroup$
Too much temperature, try at 195 °C.
$endgroup$
– Fernando Baltazar
Jan 19 at 18:51
$begingroup$
Best results so far: 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked. Not sure where to go?
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:29
1
1
$begingroup$
Hi Harrison, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 19 at 16:01
$begingroup$
Hi Harrison, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 19 at 16:01
3
3
$begingroup$
Possible duplicate of Calibration improvement of the prusa I3
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 19 at 16:11
$begingroup$
Possible duplicate of Calibration improvement of the prusa I3
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 19 at 16:11
$begingroup$
You should also specify print speed (see my answer) and layer height.
$endgroup$
– AndreKR
Jan 19 at 18:36
$begingroup$
You should also specify print speed (see my answer) and layer height.
$endgroup$
– AndreKR
Jan 19 at 18:36
1
1
$begingroup$
Too much temperature, try at 195 °C.
$endgroup$
– Fernando Baltazar
Jan 19 at 18:51
$begingroup$
Too much temperature, try at 195 °C.
$endgroup$
– Fernando Baltazar
Jan 19 at 18:51
$begingroup$
Best results so far: 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked. Not sure where to go?
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:29
$begingroup$
Best results so far: 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked. Not sure where to go?
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:29
|
show 1 more comment
5 Answers
5
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower.
If you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Ultimaker Cura there is a setting in the Experimental section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:
(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
My speed was 100. Reduced to 50 for most successful print see pic below.
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:01
add a comment |
$begingroup$
You print too hot and probably with not enough cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temperature at least 10 °C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190 °C, also 65 °C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60 °C,
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
At 190°, the print was terrible. Pictured below was printed at 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked.
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:11
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Turns out the blower on the extruder was not plugged in at the factory. Now it's printing fine. Thank you all for the help and support.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
totally missed that the fan could be off! but the temp drop surely did increase the print quality on its own already.
$endgroup$
– Trish
Jan 27 at 11:16
$begingroup$
As I said I'm my answer:with not enough cooling.
! Good that you found the plug! :)
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 28 at 8:12
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The artifact your bow clearly shows is usually a result of very high print temperature - the filament sags unevenly as it is not cooling to solidification fast enough.
You might want to reduce your print temperature for PLA a little. Try one or two 5° steps. I print my PLA usually at 200 °C, some blends even lower. Do the same for the print bed - 60 °C is the usual temperature in many machines.
When I unpack 210 °C that's only in conjunction with 100 % infill and deliberate over-extrusion for what would be best described as a "cast-solid" result. It's because under that condition I want the filament to melt and merge with everything super tight.
It also might help to change the print cooling geometry to better cool the printed parts - and check if all fans are on.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Try to re-compile the gcode, sometimes the slicer "freaks out" whilst writing the file. Which slicer are you using? (Cura, Slic3r, Repetier, etc.)
I sometimes have that errors, and giving that they do seem quite consistent in shape in the pics I would say that's the issue.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
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5 Answers
5
active
oldest
votes
5 Answers
5
active
oldest
votes
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oldest
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oldest
votes
$begingroup$
If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower.
If you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Ultimaker Cura there is a setting in the Experimental section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:
(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
My speed was 100. Reduced to 50 for most successful print see pic below.
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:01
add a comment |
$begingroup$
If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower.
If you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Ultimaker Cura there is a setting in the Experimental section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:
(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
My speed was 100. Reduced to 50 for most successful print see pic below.
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:01
add a comment |
$begingroup$
If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower.
If you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Ultimaker Cura there is a setting in the Experimental section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:
(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)
$endgroup$
If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower.
If you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Ultimaker Cura there is a setting in the Experimental section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:
(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)
edited Jan 19 at 21:21
0scar
11.9k31546
11.9k31546
answered Jan 19 at 18:34
AndreKRAndreKR
2017
2017
$begingroup$
My speed was 100. Reduced to 50 for most successful print see pic below.
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:01
add a comment |
$begingroup$
My speed was 100. Reduced to 50 for most successful print see pic below.
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:01
$begingroup$
My speed was 100. Reduced to 50 for most successful print see pic below.
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:01
$begingroup$
My speed was 100. Reduced to 50 for most successful print see pic below.
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:01
add a comment |
$begingroup$
You print too hot and probably with not enough cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temperature at least 10 °C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190 °C, also 65 °C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60 °C,
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
At 190°, the print was terrible. Pictured below was printed at 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked.
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:11
add a comment |
$begingroup$
You print too hot and probably with not enough cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temperature at least 10 °C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190 °C, also 65 °C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60 °C,
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
At 190°, the print was terrible. Pictured below was printed at 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked.
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:11
add a comment |
$begingroup$
You print too hot and probably with not enough cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temperature at least 10 °C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190 °C, also 65 °C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60 °C,
$endgroup$
You print too hot and probably with not enough cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temperature at least 10 °C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190 °C, also 65 °C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60 °C,
edited Jan 19 at 21:26
answered Jan 19 at 15:55
0scar0scar
11.9k31546
11.9k31546
$begingroup$
At 190°, the print was terrible. Pictured below was printed at 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked.
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:11
add a comment |
$begingroup$
At 190°, the print was terrible. Pictured below was printed at 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked.
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:11
$begingroup$
At 190°, the print was terrible. Pictured below was printed at 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked.
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:11
$begingroup$
At 190°, the print was terrible. Pictured below was printed at 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked.
$endgroup$
– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:11
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Turns out the blower on the extruder was not plugged in at the factory. Now it's printing fine. Thank you all for the help and support.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
totally missed that the fan could be off! but the temp drop surely did increase the print quality on its own already.
$endgroup$
– Trish
Jan 27 at 11:16
$begingroup$
As I said I'm my answer:with not enough cooling.
! Good that you found the plug! :)
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 28 at 8:12
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Turns out the blower on the extruder was not plugged in at the factory. Now it's printing fine. Thank you all for the help and support.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
totally missed that the fan could be off! but the temp drop surely did increase the print quality on its own already.
$endgroup$
– Trish
Jan 27 at 11:16
$begingroup$
As I said I'm my answer:with not enough cooling.
! Good that you found the plug! :)
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 28 at 8:12
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Turns out the blower on the extruder was not plugged in at the factory. Now it's printing fine. Thank you all for the help and support.
$endgroup$
Turns out the blower on the extruder was not plugged in at the factory. Now it's printing fine. Thank you all for the help and support.
answered Jan 25 at 19:40
Harrison ParkerHarrison Parker
211
211
$begingroup$
totally missed that the fan could be off! but the temp drop surely did increase the print quality on its own already.
$endgroup$
– Trish
Jan 27 at 11:16
$begingroup$
As I said I'm my answer:with not enough cooling.
! Good that you found the plug! :)
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 28 at 8:12
add a comment |
$begingroup$
totally missed that the fan could be off! but the temp drop surely did increase the print quality on its own already.
$endgroup$
– Trish
Jan 27 at 11:16
$begingroup$
As I said I'm my answer:with not enough cooling.
! Good that you found the plug! :)
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 28 at 8:12
$begingroup$
totally missed that the fan could be off! but the temp drop surely did increase the print quality on its own already.
$endgroup$
– Trish
Jan 27 at 11:16
$begingroup$
totally missed that the fan could be off! but the temp drop surely did increase the print quality on its own already.
$endgroup$
– Trish
Jan 27 at 11:16
$begingroup$
As I said I'm my answer:
with not enough cooling.
! Good that you found the plug! :)$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 28 at 8:12
$begingroup$
As I said I'm my answer:
with not enough cooling.
! Good that you found the plug! :)$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 28 at 8:12
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The artifact your bow clearly shows is usually a result of very high print temperature - the filament sags unevenly as it is not cooling to solidification fast enough.
You might want to reduce your print temperature for PLA a little. Try one or two 5° steps. I print my PLA usually at 200 °C, some blends even lower. Do the same for the print bed - 60 °C is the usual temperature in many machines.
When I unpack 210 °C that's only in conjunction with 100 % infill and deliberate over-extrusion for what would be best described as a "cast-solid" result. It's because under that condition I want the filament to melt and merge with everything super tight.
It also might help to change the print cooling geometry to better cool the printed parts - and check if all fans are on.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The artifact your bow clearly shows is usually a result of very high print temperature - the filament sags unevenly as it is not cooling to solidification fast enough.
You might want to reduce your print temperature for PLA a little. Try one or two 5° steps. I print my PLA usually at 200 °C, some blends even lower. Do the same for the print bed - 60 °C is the usual temperature in many machines.
When I unpack 210 °C that's only in conjunction with 100 % infill and deliberate over-extrusion for what would be best described as a "cast-solid" result. It's because under that condition I want the filament to melt and merge with everything super tight.
It also might help to change the print cooling geometry to better cool the printed parts - and check if all fans are on.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The artifact your bow clearly shows is usually a result of very high print temperature - the filament sags unevenly as it is not cooling to solidification fast enough.
You might want to reduce your print temperature for PLA a little. Try one or two 5° steps. I print my PLA usually at 200 °C, some blends even lower. Do the same for the print bed - 60 °C is the usual temperature in many machines.
When I unpack 210 °C that's only in conjunction with 100 % infill and deliberate over-extrusion for what would be best described as a "cast-solid" result. It's because under that condition I want the filament to melt and merge with everything super tight.
It also might help to change the print cooling geometry to better cool the printed parts - and check if all fans are on.
$endgroup$
The artifact your bow clearly shows is usually a result of very high print temperature - the filament sags unevenly as it is not cooling to solidification fast enough.
You might want to reduce your print temperature for PLA a little. Try one or two 5° steps. I print my PLA usually at 200 °C, some blends even lower. Do the same for the print bed - 60 °C is the usual temperature in many machines.
When I unpack 210 °C that's only in conjunction with 100 % infill and deliberate over-extrusion for what would be best described as a "cast-solid" result. It's because under that condition I want the filament to melt and merge with everything super tight.
It also might help to change the print cooling geometry to better cool the printed parts - and check if all fans are on.
edited Jan 27 at 11:16
answered Jan 19 at 15:55
TrishTrish
5,56211139
5,56211139
add a comment |
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Try to re-compile the gcode, sometimes the slicer "freaks out" whilst writing the file. Which slicer are you using? (Cura, Slic3r, Repetier, etc.)
I sometimes have that errors, and giving that they do seem quite consistent in shape in the pics I would say that's the issue.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Try to re-compile the gcode, sometimes the slicer "freaks out" whilst writing the file. Which slicer are you using? (Cura, Slic3r, Repetier, etc.)
I sometimes have that errors, and giving that they do seem quite consistent in shape in the pics I would say that's the issue.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Try to re-compile the gcode, sometimes the slicer "freaks out" whilst writing the file. Which slicer are you using? (Cura, Slic3r, Repetier, etc.)
I sometimes have that errors, and giving that they do seem quite consistent in shape in the pics I would say that's the issue.
$endgroup$
Try to re-compile the gcode, sometimes the slicer "freaks out" whilst writing the file. Which slicer are you using? (Cura, Slic3r, Repetier, etc.)
I sometimes have that errors, and giving that they do seem quite consistent in shape in the pics I would say that's the issue.
edited Jan 28 at 7:05
answered Jan 25 at 11:56
miguelpicrismiguelpicris
112
112
add a comment |
add a comment |
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$begingroup$
Hi Harrison, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 19 at 16:01
3
$begingroup$
Possible duplicate of Calibration improvement of the prusa I3
$endgroup$
– 0scar
Jan 19 at 16:11
$begingroup$
You should also specify print speed (see my answer) and layer height.
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– AndreKR
Jan 19 at 18:36
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Too much temperature, try at 195 °C.
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– Fernando Baltazar
Jan 19 at 18:51
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Best results so far: 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked. Not sure where to go?
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– Harrison
Jan 24 at 9:29